International jewelery Economic Forum

Russia is seriously planning to transform into one of main world jewellery centres again, as in time of famous Karl Faberge. This was, among others, the topic of International Jewellery economical forum which started in Moscow on Friday 13th September 2013.This gathering, dedicated to big jewellers who worked for Russian imperial family, organises jeweller’s guild of Russia with the support of Chamber of Commerce of Russian Federation. Experts consider that International jewellery   economical forum is a good opportunity for jewellers to draw the attention of public on themselves and solve many important questions. Many foreign delegations take part on forum, and among participants there are also representatives from World Jewellery conference (CIBJO), presidents of national jewellers associations, representatives of many regional associations and Russian jewellery  companies, investment companies, auction houses, galleries and companies which organize exhibitions and fairs, as well as leading art historians.

As a part of forum on 14th September national charity jewellery ball was held, exhibition “Traditional and modern jewellery art of Russia” was open, and Winter Olympic medals which will be held in 2014 in Sochi were presented.

Anyway, the best jewellery works  of Russian masters every year are presented on prestige world exhibitions and fairs of goldsmith and watch making in Vicenza, Bassel, Berlin and Hong Kong.

Galina Ananjina , general director of National centre for collecting art objects, says that jewellery making has became part of Russian culture after huge success of master from Russia on first World jewellery exhibition in London in 1851.

During last 20 years jewellery industry in Russia blossomed again. Jewellers renovated already forgotten techniques and beat their predecessor. Good example of master piece of modern Russian jewellers are church objects of top production made for church Christ the Saviour in Moscow.

Artist Elena Opaleva in year 1996 for her necklace “Sfinga from Giza” got international diamante award of company “De Beers”, which is like jewellery “Oscar”. This year Russian artist and jeweller Ilgiz Fazulzjanov for the second time won grand prix and title “Winner among winners” on world jewellery contest “International Jewellery Design Excellence Award” in Hong Kong.

Ananjina mentions that Russian citizens can rear see modern jewellery work of their countrymen. That’s why many people have wrong picture on Russian goldsmith accomplishments today and they think that Russian jewellery make “just standard rings and necklaces”. According to its estimate, in total production of Russian companies, exclusive jewellery products are taking 20%, while other 80 % makes jewellery dedicated to buyers of middle class.

Today main centres of jewellery art in Russia is Moscow, Saint Petersburg, Kostroma and Jaroslavlj. On exhibitions abroad, award winning are also Yakut’s  diamonds and jewellery with Russian national motives, as well as works of Ural jewellers. In Yakutiya goldsmith has hundred years old tradition. In post Soviet period this art craft lived its revival thanks to private investments. Lately state starts to offer significant financial support to the companies who process precious stones, since sources and labour are expensive, and under ground diamond exploitation, transferred to by main brilliant producer in Russia ALROSA needs higher expenses. Sources for making jewellery products have became more expensive: diamonds, gold and silver, while drilling currently stagnates. There is only one more problem in this area: strict laws inherited from Soviet times. resident of so-called diamond council at cabinet of president of Republic Saha (Yakutia) Vasilij Vlasov said for Russian News that the price of precious metals and precious stones from 2003 is not so high as it was in USSR. Even tough it is the good s all the other, law legislative are changed very little. ”When starting jewellery production it is necessary to have adequately equipped rooms with concrete safe deposit boxes, metal bars on the windows and safe door. For transport of jewellery products  it is needed to have special security..” And all this determinates the price, Vlasov explains. He adds that apart from that , in criminal code there are still restrictions referring to business with precious metals and other stones.

Apart from mentioned problems, jewellers have problems with high taxes. “So far abroad are sold only diamonds in Ramat Gan (Izrael), Antwerpen (Belgium), Shangai (China).

Precious stones like emeralds, sapphires or alexandrite are imported from abroad and is subject to customs clearance and taxation, and these expenses are 33 % of total price. Brilliant production  in Russia is very expensive and due to peculiarity  of their exploitation and expensive labour. Even though the production of small brilliants is not worth while, they are the most wanted on the market, complains Vasilij Vlasov. “ China and India buy small brilliants for majority of their jewellery products , and on the prime price they add 33%.There are also problems when selling on domestic market. For example, company ALROSA sells diamonds to its foreign partners without the taxes, while on domestic  market adds to the price VAT”, says Vlasov. Even though in last ten years domestic jewellers try to change  that they don’t always have support from government of Russian Federation.

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